From 6613c5acc4d28ba8634e6ba6c2a178991000c1f4 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Qued Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 21:43:07 -0500 Subject: [PATCH 1/5] shortcut -> short circuit --- docs/hardware/bed.md | 26 +++++++++++++------------- docs/hardware/powersupply.md | 2 +- docs/hardware/printhead.md | 22 +++++++++++----------- docs/index.md | 2 +- docs/troubleshooting.md | 8 ++++---- 5 files changed, 30 insertions(+), 30 deletions(-) diff --git a/docs/hardware/bed.md b/docs/hardware/bed.md index eea1443a..10074c9c 100644 --- a/docs/hardware/bed.md +++ b/docs/hardware/bed.md @@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ The following picture shows the stock spacers on the left, springs in the middle People often think that using adjustable spacers would be an improvement as that allows them to manually tram the bed. While this is true in the meaning that you can't trame the bed itself with rigid spacers, it's actually not necessarily true that people are actually able to achieve better results when using adjustable spacers and tramming the bed manually. Not only do we have to access the screws from above here (which can be solved by drilling out the holes as mentioned above), but it can also be pretty challenging to adjust the height to get the four corners of the bed being equidistant to the nozzle with less variances than when using rigid spacers. Besides that, when adjusting the height, people tend to compress the spacers too much, which then puts additional stress onto the bedplate and might lead to more warping. - It can also lead to the circumstance that the bedplate will be too low and that the underside will hit the mount of the Y-axis motor which then can do harm and create a shortcut to the heater coil. So pay close attention to that! + It can also lead to the circumstance that the bedplate will be too low and that the underside will hit the mount of the Y-axis motor which then can do harm and create a short circuit to the heater coil. So pay close attention to that! However, when using adjustable spacers, it's crucial to [tram the x-gantry in relation to the *frame*](axes.md#tramming-the-x-axis-gantry)! @@ -245,10 +245,10 @@ The following picture shows the stock spacers on the left, springs in the middle When using adjustable spacers, it's extremely important to keep an eye on the clearing underneath the bed while tramming the bed and therefore adjusting the height of the whole bedplate itself! You don't want to get the bed too low so that it hits or scratches the bracket of the y-axis motor mount! - The following pictures show the result of a bed which as been adjusted too low, so that the metal bracket of the y-axis motor mount scratched the underside of the bed. The heating coils got harmed and a shortcut occured. Not only will you have to get yourself a new bed in this case, this can also destroy the mainboard or do even more severe harm! + The following pictures show the result of a bed which as been adjusted too low, so that the metal bracket of the y-axis motor mount scratched the underside of the bed. The heating coils got harmed and a short circuit occured. Not only will you have to get yourself a new bed in this case, this can also destroy the mainboard or do even more severe harm! - ![Bed PCB shortcut](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_wide_web.jpeg) - ![Bed PCB shortcut closeup](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_web.jpeg) + ![Bed PCB short circuit](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_wide_web.jpeg) + ![Bed PCB short circuit closeup](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_web.jpeg) Also when adding insulation to the underside of the bed, the clearance has to be checked to avoid that the mounting plate will tear off the insulation! @@ -269,10 +269,10 @@ I personally used 8x25mm springs (the yellow ones shown above) and M4x40mm count When using adjustable spacers, it's extremely important to keep an eye on the clearing underneath the bed while tramming the bed and therefore adjusting the height of the whole bedplate itself! You don't want to get the bed too low so that it hits or scratches the bracket of the y-axis motor mount! - The following pictures show the result of a bed which as been adjusted too low, so that the metal bracket of the y-axis motor mount scratched the underside of the bed. The heating coils got harmed and a shortcut occured. Not only will you have to get yourself a new bed in this case, this can also destroy the mainboard or do even more severe harm! + The following pictures show the result of a bed which as been adjusted too low, so that the metal bracket of the y-axis motor mount scratched the underside of the bed. The heating coils got harmed and a short circuit occured. Not only will you have to get yourself a new bed in this case, this can also destroy the mainboard or do even more severe harm! - ![Bed PCB shortcut](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_wide_web.jpeg) - ![Bed PCB shortcut closeup](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_web.jpeg) + ![Bed PCB short circuit](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_wide_web.jpeg) + ![Bed PCB short circuit closeup](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_web.jpeg) Also when adding insulation to the underside of the bed, the clearance has to be checked to avoid that the mounting plate will tear off the insulation! @@ -288,10 +288,10 @@ Keep in mind that the silicone spacers (I used 18mm long ones shown below) compr When using adjustable spacers, it's extremely important to keep an eye on the clearing underneath the bed while tramming the bed and therefore adjusting the height of the whole bedplate itself! You don't want to get the bed too low so that it hits or scratches the bracket of the y-axis motor mount! - The following pictures show the result of a bed which as been adjusted too low, so that the metal bracket of the y-axis motor mount scratched the underside of the bed. The heating coils got harmed and a shortcut occured. Not only will you have to get yourself a new bed in this case, this can also destroy the mainboard or do even more severe harm! + The following pictures show the result of a bed which as been adjusted too low, so that the metal bracket of the y-axis motor mount scratched the underside of the bed. The heating coils got harmed and a short circuit occured. Not only will you have to get yourself a new bed in this case, this can also destroy the mainboard or do even more severe harm! - ![Bed PCB shortcut](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_wide_web.jpeg) - ![Bed PCB shortcut closeup](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_web.jpeg) + ![Bed PCB short circuit](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_wide_web.jpeg) + ![Bed PCB short circuit closeup](../assets/images/bed_shortcut_web.jpeg) Also when adding insulation to the underside of the bed, the clearance has to be checked to avoid that the mounting plate will tear off the insulation! @@ -651,7 +651,7 @@ The following expandable textboxes will give you some basic instructions what yo However, *it's advisable to measure the resistance, even though your multimeter offers the function of probing for continuity,* because it might be the case that a wire still passes the check for continuity, but that individual strands of the wire are broken. This causes problems if those strands lose contact permanently or during movement of the bed, as it leads to a higher resistance. - - At the 24V wires this can lead to the circumstance that the wire will get hot at that spot, that the insulation will melt, that a shortcut might occur and it might even occur that it causes a fire. + - At the 24V wires this can lead to the circumstance that the wire will get hot at that spot, that the insulation will melt, that a short circuit might occur and it might even occur that it causes a fire. - At the thermistor wires this can cause the [ERR: MINTEMP](../troubleshooting.md#err-mintempmaxtempthermal-runaway) error message. When the problem of breaking strands starts to occur, you'll experience the upcoming of this error message when the bed is moving and reaches a certain position. In that case those broken strands lose contact, which leads to a suddenly changing resistance value. As the temperature is interpreted by the reisistance value of the bed's thermistor, a suddenly changing resistance is interpreted as a sudden change in the temperature. If this change is 'big' enough, the belonging error message will be triggered. **Procedure:** @@ -724,7 +724,7 @@ If you encounter a **faulty wiring, either of the 24V line or the thermistor,** - If you need to replace the wiring of the 24V heater circuit of the bed, use highly flexible wire with many thin strands and a silicone insulation! *Don't* use a wire with a PVC insulation! - Use at least AWG14 wire, preferrably thicker. - Add [ferrules] to the end of the wires which connects to the screw terminals of the mainboard! - - Pay attention to proper soldering! Avoid any shortcuts, cold solder joints etc. + - Pay attention to proper soldering! Avoid any short circuits, cold solder joints etc. - If you can't solder and you *absolutely* don't have any other possibility to have the soldering done by someone who is experienced in this, you might use special connectors. - In that case you leave e.g. an inch of the original wiring at the bed (assuming that the faulty spot isn't located there - check that beforehand!) and then connect the new wire with the existing one. - If you do so, pay special attention to add a proper strain relief - no strain or movement *at all* should occur at the fixed part of the wire! @@ -735,7 +735,7 @@ If you encounter a **faulty wiring, either of the 24V line or the thermistor,** - If you need to replace the wiring of the thermistor of the bed, use highly flexible wire with many thin strands and a silicone insulation! *Don't* use a wire with a PVC insulation! - Use at least AWG22 wire, preferrably thicker. - - Pay attention to proper soldering! Avoid any shortcuts, cold solder joints etc. + - Pay attention to proper soldering! Avoid any short circuits, cold solder joints etc. - If you can't solder and you *absolutely* don't have any other possibility to have the soldering done by someone who is experienced in this, you might use special connectors. - If you want to do so, leave e.g. an inch of the original wiring at the bed (assuming that the faulty spot isn't located there - check that beforehand!) and then connect the new wire with the existing one. - *If you do so, pay special attention to add a proper strain relief - no strain or movement at all should occur at the fixed part of the wire!* diff --git a/docs/hardware/powersupply.md b/docs/hardware/powersupply.md index fb4dc6d9..ab4ab9ad 100644 --- a/docs/hardware/powersupply.md +++ b/docs/hardware/powersupply.md @@ -143,7 +143,7 @@ However, when you want to use e.g. 12V fans which speeds are usually controlled ## MOD: Add Additional Fuses To The 24V DC Wiring It is highly recommended to add a fuse or a fusebox to each of the 24V lines. Pay attention to choose the correct 'size' of the fuse for the belonging part (ampere rating). -Doing so can save you from burning down your house if components fail or if the wires somehow overheat and start to burn due to broken strands (which causes a higher resistance) or a shortcut. +Doing so can save you from burning down your house if components fail or if the wires somehow overheat and start to burn due to broken strands (which causes a higher resistance) or a short circuit. (..need to add pic..) diff --git a/docs/hardware/printhead.md b/docs/hardware/printhead.md index 863a019f..fec4e54c 100644 --- a/docs/hardware/printhead.md +++ b/docs/hardware/printhead.md @@ -625,7 +625,7 @@ In the following, the specific hotends will be shown. Before jumping to the spec - Take off the plastic cover first to get better access to the whole area. - Heat up everthing - I did this by using the preherat function for PLA at the control unit. - - Once the filament starts to melt and gets soft, grab a wooden stick and take away as much as possible carefully. *Don't* use a screwdriver or something like that to do so as you might harm the wires and/or cause a shortcut at e.g. the contacts of the cartridge heater.
*Be really careful when taking away the clumps to not harm or rip off any of the wires!* You can also use a cloth to wipe off the melted filament from the heater block and so on, just make sure you don't burn yourself! + - Once the filament starts to melt and gets soft, grab a wooden stick and take away as much as possible carefully. *Don't* use a screwdriver or something like that to do so as you might harm the wires and/or cause a short circuit at e.g. the contacts of the cartridge heater.
*Be really careful when taking away the clumps to not harm or rip off any of the wires!* You can also use a cloth to wipe off the melted filament from the heater block and so on, just make sure you don't burn yourself! - For the next steps you need to be a bit quick in proceeding them, so if this is the first time you're diassembling the hotend, take a look at the sections here at the page and read them first so you'll know where the screws are located and which steps you need to take. Then proceed with the following steps. - So, once everything is as clean as possible, turn off the printer and loosen the grub screws inside the heater block to take out the thermistor and the cartridge heater. Give it a quick wipe with the cloth if they're covered by a lot of filament, too (but don't waste too much time here as the filament is becoming hard again now pretty quick!). - Then take out the nozzle from the heater block and unscrew the heater block from the hotend. Pay attention if you can feel that the heatbreak was loose in the heater block to check if that was the reason for the filament being able to squeeze out and build up. @@ -670,7 +670,7 @@ If you need to dismount the hotend from the printhead to change it or if you nee !!! danger - *If you can see bare wire shining through the isolation of the wires of either the thermistor or the cartridge heater, I'd strongly recommend to replace the component to not risk a shortcut and therefore a broken mainboard!* + *If you can see bare wire shining through the isolation of the wires of either the thermistor or the cartridge heater, I'd strongly recommend to replace the component to not risk a short circuit and therefore a broken mainboard!* ??? example "Disassembling Procedure" @@ -733,7 +733,7 @@ If you need to dismount the hotend from the printhead to change it or if you nee !!! danger - *If you can see bare wire shining through the isolation of the wires of either the thermistor or the cartridge heater, I'd strongly recommend to replace the component to not risk a shortcut and therefore a broken mainboard!* + *If you can see bare wire shining through the isolation of the wires of either the thermistor or the cartridge heater, I'd strongly recommend to replace the component to not risk a short circuit and therefore a broken mainboard!* ??? example "Disassembling Procedure" @@ -1051,7 +1051,7 @@ The following expandable textboxes will give you some basic instructions what yo *If you can see bare wire shing through due to a melted and/or displaced insulation, change the part immediately!* - Don't try to cover it up with some kind of insulation, even though Kapton tape should stand the heat. You'll risk a shortcut which then will harm your motherboard and might even cause more severe damage! + Don't try to cover it up with some kind of insulation, even though Kapton tape should stand the heat. You'll risk a short circuit which then will harm your motherboard and might even cause more severe damage! You can check the wiring of the thermistor by measuring the electrical continuity of the wires. If your multimeter doesn't have this function, you can measure the resistance instead. @@ -1133,7 +1133,7 @@ The following picture shows the JST VH 3.96 connector which is necessary to fit ??? tip "General Tips" - If you need to install a new thermistor and/or cartridge heater, you have to unstrip the wires from the wire conduit. You can just unroll the conduit, pull out the wires from the old part while tugging in the wires of the new part. Be careful to not pull too hard to not harm any thin wires which might be wrapped around the wires of the old part.
![Stripping in the new wires](../assets/images/stripping_in_wires_web.jpg) - - When installing the parts at the heater block and putting back on the plastic cap of the printhead, I personally avoided to bend the thin wires as it was done within the original installation. I just guided the wires along outside the plastic cover. By doing so, you minimize the risk of getting a shortcut due to a harmed or melted wire isolation at the part where the wires are bent and twisted originally. The following picture shows my new installed thermistor and cartridge heater with the wires running outside of the plastic cap.
![Wires running outside of the plastic cap](../assets/images/head_neo_new-sen-therm_web.jpg) + - When installing the parts at the heater block and putting back on the plastic cap of the printhead, I personally avoided to bend the thin wires as it was done within the original installation. I just guided the wires along outside the plastic cover. By doing so, you minimize the risk of getting a short circuit due to a harmed or melted wire isolation at the part where the wires are bent and twisted originally. The following picture shows my new installed thermistor and cartridge heater with the wires running outside of the plastic cap.
![Wires running outside of the plastic cap](../assets/images/head_neo_new-sen-therm_web.jpg) ??? info "Ceramic Heater Block With Inbuilt Heating Element" @@ -1175,12 +1175,12 @@ The following expandable textbox will give you some basic instructions what you *If you can see bare wire shing through due to a melted and/or displaced insulation, change the part immediately!* - Don't try to cover it up with some kind of insulation, even though Kapton tape should stand the heat. You'll risk a shortcut which then will harm your motherboard and might even cause more severe damage! + Don't try to cover it up with some kind of insulation, even though Kapton tape should stand the heat. You'll risk a short circuit which then will harm your motherboard and might even cause more severe damage! You can check the wiring of the 24V line by measuring the electrical continuity of the wires. If your multimeter doesn't have this function, you can measure the resistance instead. However, *it's advisable to measure the resistance, even though your multimeter offers the function of probing for continuity,* because it might be the case that a wire still passes the check for continuity, but that individual strands of the wire are broken. This causes problems if those strands lose contact permanently or during movement of the bed, as it leads to a higher resistance. - Here at the at the 24V wires this can lead to the circumstance that the wire will get hot at that spot, that the insulation will melt, that a shortcut might occur and it might even occur that it causes a fire. + Here at the at the 24V wires this can lead to the circumstance that the wire will get hot at that spot, that the insulation will melt, that a short circuit might occur and it might even occur that it causes a fire. ??? example "Checking The 24V Heating Circuit Of The Cartridge Heater" @@ -1228,9 +1228,9 @@ I highly recommend to only use high quality nozzles, like the [**original E3D V6 ??? warning "Nozzles: Handle With Care!" - - *Be careful to NOT touch and harm the wires and contacts of the thermistor and the heating cartridge with at brass brush or the wrench!*
You may either harm the insulation, break the wire or even cause a shortcut which can result in a broken mainboard once you powered the printer up again. + - *Be careful to NOT touch and harm the wires and contacts of the thermistor and the heating cartridge with at brass brush or the wrench!*
You may either harm the insulation, break the wire or even cause a short circuit which can result in a broken mainboard once you powered the printer up again. - If you want to change the nozzle (*check out the expandable admonition below!*) and need to grab the heater block with a wrench, make sure you really just grab the heater block and never get any wires up in between - preferably grab the heater block from that sides where the wires don't come out. - - If you want to clean the nozzle using a brass brush for example, *never* do it when the printer is powered up and the heating process of the extruder is in progress to avoid causing a shortcut by touching the contacs with the brush. + - If you want to clean the nozzle using a brass brush for example, *never* do it when the printer is powered up and the heating process of the extruder is in progress to avoid causing a short circuit by touching the contacs with the brush. - *Make sure you DON'T turn the heater block!* In case you want to change the nozzle, you don't want to loosen the heater block from the hotend, so just hold the heater block in place without turning it. - *Don't do cold pulls for cleaning a nozzle when using any kind of coated nozzles!* This also involves hardened steel nozzles! Referring to the manufacturers, the coating might be harmed when doing so. @@ -1325,7 +1325,7 @@ A harmed tip or worn out nozzle may also cause artefacts like stringing for exam - For cleaning the nozzle and getting rid of excessive filament during the printing process or right before printing starts as the extruder is heating up, you can use a long and thin wooden stick like a skewer. A wooden toothpick also works fine - just make sure you don't burn yourself as it may be a bit short. I personally use these long pipe cleaners which have this kinda cotton stuff all around them. It doesn't melt when touching the hot nozzle and filament sticks great to it. - Before and after each print I recommend to wipe away the melted filament at the nozzle with a 'cotton' pipe cleaner, a paper towel or a cloth - but *don't burn yourself!* This procedure keeps the nozzle clean and the rest of the filament won't burn black onto the brass which makes it hard to remove later. - - If the nozzle is already too smeared and has too much filament burnt onto the surface to be cleaned with a paper towel, you can use a small brass brush. Be careful though to not harm the tip of the nozzle by scrubbing too hard across it! Be careful to *not* touch any wires or contacts during brushing at it may cause a shortcut and blow off your mainboard! So I'd suggest you heat up the nozzle and then turn off the printer before starting to brush. + - If the nozzle is already too smeared and has too much filament burnt onto the surface to be cleaned with a paper towel, you can use a small brass brush. Be careful though to not harm the tip of the nozzle by scrubbing too hard across it! Be careful to *not* touch any wires or contacts during brushing at it may cause a short circuit and blow off your mainboard! So I'd suggest you heat up the nozzle and then turn off the printer before starting to brush. - If the nozzle is clogged, using a needle with the correct diameter to stick it into the hot nozzle for cleaning it sometimes works. Just stick in in the heatened up nozzle and poke around. Be careful to not harm the tip of the nozzle though! - You can also use certain filament which is made for cleaning. You load it and let it run through. - If the nozzle is clogged and therefore the cleaning filament can't run through, you could also try to do a *"cold pull"*. To do so you heat up the nozzle to about 220°C, load the cleaning filament and manually push it through a bit. Then let the nozzle cool down to about 90-100°C and rip out the filament. You may have to repeat this procedure a few times until the cleaning filament can run through again. However, be careful not to rip off the filament by doing the cold pull as you then definitely have to disassemble the hotend. @@ -1347,7 +1347,7 @@ If you need to change the nozzle, mind the warnings from above and check out the - If you just want to change the nozzle, take off the silicone sock of the heater block, then *heat up the extruder first* about 5-10°C above your regular printing temperature and pull back the filament a bit once it's warm enough. - Once the extruder heated up, let it sit at that temperature for about a minute or two to make sure that even the last amount of filament which might stick somewhere in the gaps or the thread is melted. - - Then *turn off the printer* and ideally unplug it from the power outlet. Don't fiddle around while it's turned on - in case you slip with the wrench and harm the wires you could create a shortcut which most likely will blow something up of your mainboard. + - Then *turn off the printer* and ideally unplug it from the power outlet. Don't fiddle around while it's turned on - in case you slip with the wrench and harm the wires you could create a short circuit which most likely will blow something up of your mainboard. - Then grab the heater block with a wrench to hold it in place and screw out the nozzle carefully. Use a sufficient tool like a wrench or a socket wrench for the nozzle - don't use a pair of pliers as it may/will round off the screw nut. - Make sure you don't turn the heater block at all to not loosen it from the heat break! Just hold it in place. - If the nozzle won't come loose, heat up the extruder again, raise the temperature a bit and let it sit longer to melt the filament in the gaps which seems to block. Before trying to unscrew the nozzle, switch off the printer again.
If that still doesn't work, you could take a piece of damp cloth and hold it against the nozzle (*not* the heater block, *only the nozzle*!) for a moment to cool it down. Due to the sudden decrease of temperature the metal of the nozzle will contract a tiny bit which may result in being able to unscrew it. diff --git a/docs/index.md b/docs/index.md index 1e83d1a0..2f8608d5 100644 --- a/docs/index.md +++ b/docs/index.md @@ -75,7 +75,7 @@ Please mind the **search field** in the header as well as the icon in the header - Thanks to **[GruesomeJeans](https://www.reddit.com/user/GruesomeJeans)** for taking pictures of the spare parts of the bed, the magnetic foil, the mounted z-axis limit switch and the ruby tipped nozzle! - Thanks to **[Imaginary_Gift_8533](https://www.reddit.com/user/Imaginary_Gift_8533/)** for allowing me to use his picture of the wear & tear of his wheels! - Thanks to **[I_Sells_Drugs](https://www.reddit.com/user/I_Sells_Drugs/)** for taking pictures of his sheared off heatbreak! - - Thanks to **[Island-Strange](https://www.reddit.com/user/Island-Strange/)** for taking a picture of his shortcut bed! + - Thanks to **[Island-Strange](https://www.reddit.com/user/Island-Strange/)** for taking a picture of his short circuit bed! - Thanks to **[Jaximus](https://www.reddit.com/user/Jaximus)** for allowing me to use the picture of the slipped out cartridge heater! - Thanks to **[JD154](https://github.com/JD154)** for the pics of and notes about the aluminum belt tensioners! - Thanks to **[jokubasver](https://github.com/jokubasver)** for taking that screenshot of the config settings for compiling the klipper.bin and for allowing me to use his picture of the stock control unit being used for KlipperScreen! diff --git a/docs/troubleshooting.md b/docs/troubleshooting.md index 8b429e80..bf761b89 100644 --- a/docs/troubleshooting.md +++ b/docs/troubleshooting.md @@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ See the section ["Err: MINTEMP/MAXTEMP/THERMAL RUNAWAY"](#err-mintempmaxtempther If you face **homing problems** of - the **x- or y-axis**, like the printhead crashes into the limit switch and doesn't seem to stop trying to move (which most likely makes an awful sound as well), please see the section ["Homing Failed: X/Y](#homing-failed-xy). -- the **z-axis**, then it's most likely either a wiring problem (like a broken wire or a loose or unplugged connector) or a faulty switch. Of course the mainboard might be defective as well, but this is more unlikely (imho) if you didn't create a shortcut or so. +- the **z-axis**, then it's most likely either a wiring problem (like a broken wire or a loose or unplugged connector) or a faulty switch. Of course the mainboard might be defective as well, but this is more unlikely (imho) if you didn't create a short circuit or so. So first of all check if the little metal piece at the x-axis gantry which triggers the switch really is in the correct position to trigger the switch. Check if the wiring of the switch is correct and if the connectors are plugged in at both the limit switch as well as at the mainboard. You can also measure the wire with a multimeter to see if you face a broken wire. @@ -291,7 +291,7 @@ Reasons that can cause this might vary from being easy to fix to a real hardware - The thermistor wire is completely broken or ripped off. - The thermistor itself is faulty. - The plug of the thermistor wire at the mainboard somehow came off. -- An electronic component of the mainboard is broken (e.g. due to a shortcut). +- An electronic component of the mainboard is broken (e.g. due to a short circuit). If the error pops up while the printer is moving or printing, then it's most likely one of the first two things I mentioned above. It might also be the third point as a broken wire loses contact due to movements and therefore the resistance becomes bigger (if just a few strands of the wire are broken inside of the insulation) or the signal won't be transmitted anymore at all (if the wire is completely broken). @@ -331,7 +331,7 @@ Reasons that can cause this might vary from being easy to fix to a real hardware - The thermistor wire is completely broken or ripped off. - The thermistor itself is faulty. - The plug of the thermistor wire at the mainboard somehow came off. -- An electronic component of the mainboard is broken (e.g. due to a shortcut). +- An electronic component of the mainboard is broken (e.g. due to a short circuit). If the error pops up while the printer is moving or printing, then it's most likely one of the first two things I mentioned above. It's actually *most likely that you're dealing with broken wires* - that's a pretty common issue, as they are made of poor quality and tend to brake over time due to the movement. In this case broken strands of the wires (inside of the insulation) temporary lose contact due to the movement of the bed and wires and therefore the resistance fluctuates, which results in a fluctuating temperature reading. The more wires break and the more permament this 'gap' between the broken wires will be, the more 'permanent' this problem will be until to the point that all wires broke and the signal won't be transmitted anymore at all. At this stage the error message will pop up right away when you turn on the printer. @@ -358,7 +358,7 @@ This occurs when either - the belonging switch isn't installed correctly and therefore can't be properly triggered by the belonging part of the head or the bed, - the wiring is faulty (e.g. a loose connector either at the belonging switch or at the mainboard, a broken wire), - the limit switch itself is faulty, -- the mainboard is damaged (which ususally is pretty unlikely if you didn't somehow create a shortcut or so). +- the mainboard is damaged (which ususally is pretty unlikely if you didn't somehow create a short circuit or so). To determine whether it's the position, the wiring or the switch (as these are the most likely reasons), check the position of the switch and the plastic cap first. Make sure it's properly installed and the belonging part of either the head of the bed touches the metal lever of the switch properly, so that the switch itself really will be triggered. You can do so by manually moving the head or bed towards the switch while observing it. From 0a7adc237734100411fa7188f17c00d307825921 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Qued Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 23:04:20 -0500 Subject: [PATCH 2/5] README corrections --- README.md | 10 +++++----- 1 file changed, 5 insertions(+), 5 deletions(-) diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index b3f2f57e..9f585f0e 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -14,20 +14,20 @@ From d7cef74f24fcd1dbc140098f8703a6b657534fca Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Qued Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 23:04:48 -0500 Subject: [PATCH 3/5] docs corrections --- docs/calibration.md | 20 ++++++++++---------- docs/index.md | 6 +++--- docs/maintenance.md | 14 +++++++------- docs/printers.md | 2 +- docs/printserver.md | 20 ++++++++++---------- docs/profiles.md | 2 +- docs/tools.md | 12 ++++++------ docs/troubleshooting.md | 28 ++++++++++++++-------------- 8 files changed, 52 insertions(+), 52 deletions(-) diff --git a/docs/calibration.md b/docs/calibration.md index d90a798b..9aae6a22 100644 --- a/docs/calibration.md +++ b/docs/calibration.md @@ -59,7 +59,7 @@ Using certain tools makes it easier to calibrate your printer. It'll allow you t --- ## Printer Calibration -The following steps should be done first to ensure that you set up your printer correctly and that you took care of printer specific pecullarities. +The following steps should be done first to ensure that you set up your printer correctly and that you took care of printer specific peculiarities. --- @@ -67,7 +67,7 @@ The following steps should be done first to ensure that you set up your printer Make sure that you built and set up the printer correctly and that it's trammed as best as you can. **This is the most important and crucial thing, as you'll only be able to get good prints if the hardware itself is set up correctly.** -This also should be checked if you're using the **Neo** which comes pre-assembled, as you shouldn't rely on the assumption that the manufacturere built everything correctly. Just to show you *how* important that is, look at the following picture of the y-axis frame of one of my Neos how it came preassembled from the manufacturer. +This also should be checked if you're using the **Neo** which comes pre-assembled, as you shouldn't rely on the assumption that the manufacturer built everything correctly. Just to show you *how* important that is, look at the following picture of the y-axis frame of one of my Neos how it came preassembled from the manufacturer. ![Neo crooked y-axis](assets/images/axes_y-axis-crooked_web.jpg) @@ -112,7 +112,7 @@ Make sure the belts of the axes are properly tensioned. Don't go with sloppy bel ### Check The Wheels Make sure the v-slot wheels are all fine and that they aren't harmed or indented. The wheels should turn nice and smooth. -If you feel any reoccuring hiccups during movements or when turning a wheel and can't see any damage of the wheel itself, you might have a bad bearing. +If you feel any reoccurring hiccups during movements or when turning a wheel and can't see any damage of the wheel itself, you might have a bad bearing. If any wheels or bearings seem to be damaged or faulty, get yourself new ones and install them. Also pay attention to the correct positions of the V-slot wheels. They should sit in the v-slot of the rails perfectly and they shouldn't run too loose nor too tight. Please refer to the according sections for further information. @@ -153,7 +153,7 @@ In the following I'll list some of the calibrations which are necessary. The lis Keep in mind that it may take some time until you found the best suitable settings. And even then it might occur that you'll have to adjust certain settings later when finally printing 'real' models. So maybe try to see it more like a process instead of the struggle of a search for the 'perfect' settings which must out there somewhere.. -Also keep in mind that you'll have to do certain calibrations again when using different kinds of filament. This doesn't only comes into account when printing a differenty type like ABS or PETG instead of PLA, but it also most likely will be the case when using the same type of filament but made from another manufaturer. Even the same type and brand of filament from the same manufacturer might need some slightly different settings like the temperature for example, when you're using a new spool or a different colour! +Also keep in mind that you'll have to do certain calibrations again when using different kinds of filament. This doesn't only comes into account when printing a differently type like ABS or PETG instead of PLA, but it also most likely will be the case when using the same type of filament but made from another manufacturer. Even the same type and brand of filament from the same manufacturer might need some slightly different settings like the temperature for example, when you're using a new spool or a different colour! --- @@ -194,7 +194,7 @@ If you need to adjust the height, you don't need to execute an ABL sequence agai --- ### Printing Temperature (Filament) -You determie the best printing temperature for your specific type of filament by printing temperature towers. These models change the printing temperature at certain layer heights in certain steps (e.g. in 5°C increments, starting with the highest temperature first), so that you'll print the same structure with different temperatures. For generating a temperature tower with your own specific settings, I recommend using the abovementioned SuperSlicer with the inbuilt calibration toolset. You can take the recommendations of the manufacturer of your filament as a rough guide for the temperature range you should print at. +You determine the best printing temperature for your specific type of filament by printing temperature towers. These models change the printing temperature at certain layer heights in certain steps (e.g. in 5°C increments, starting with the highest temperature first), so that you'll print the same structure with different temperatures. For generating a temperature tower with your own specific settings, I recommend using the abovementioned SuperSlicer with the inbuilt calibration toolset. You can take the recommendations of the manufacturer of your filament as a rough guide for the temperature range you should print at. Then you inspect the printed model: in which temperature zones does it look best? Where are the layers of the filament solidified and melted together best? Where do overhangs look best and where does (massive) oozing and stringing occur? Don't pay *too much* attention on stringing and oozing yet though, as you'll take care of that later by printing retraction towers. Same goes for bridges (and overhangs): if you notice that bridges didn't come out perfect and that you can see strings of filament 'hanging' down, don't get too irritated by that as well. You can and should take care of bridging specific settings in your slicer later anyway, like a different printing speed, different extrusion rate, different fan speed and so on. @@ -206,7 +206,7 @@ Besides only *looking* at the outcome, I personally use to tear apart the printe So try to break each temperature section apart by using your hands first. You'll most likely already encounter some floors which are easy to break apart. Once you're done with that, take two pliers and repeat the process for each floor. You'll most likely be able to break every floor at a certain point, but you'll notice some obvious differences like how much force you have to use and *how* the floors break apart. So after you teared the model apart, inspect those areas: did it clearly break right between two layers? Or did it break *across* different layers? -When it clearly broke between two layers, inspect the next floor with the higher temperature being used. Try to find the floor where it seems that the layers sticked together very well and the break most likely occured across different layers. +When it clearly broke between two layers, inspect the next floor with the higher temperature being used. Try to find the floor where it seems that the layers sticked together very well and the break most likely occurred across different layers. Once you're done and decided to go with a specific temperature, continue with other calibrations like printing retraction towers, calibrating the e-steps and so on. At the end I'd recommend to print another temperature tower once again for being able to compare the output to the first one you printed. You don't have to print such a 'large' and wide ranged temperature tower though, maybe just print a tower with the 'final' settings and temperature you decided to use and add a floor with 5° higher and 5° lower temperature. @@ -255,7 +255,7 @@ Retraction *speed* is the setting how *fast* the feeder gear will pull back the In general it seems that you can say that the higher the *speed*, the lower the *distance* can be - but like with every 'rule of thumb', this is just a 'rough' guide and you'll need to find out the optimum setting for your specific setup by your own. You might also find out that things work out much better and that you get better results when using a lower retraction speed. There is a little problem though with both the **Go** and the **Neo**: the retraction speed is limited in the firmware by default to *25mm/s*! -This means that every higher value you set in your sclicer will just be ignored and reduced to 25mm/s as that's the encoded limit. +This means that every higher value you set in your slicer will just be ignored and reduced to 25mm/s as that's the encoded limit. Means, when you're starting to print retraction speed towers with higher vales than 25mm/s, those speeds will be 'ignored' so to say as the speed is actually capped to 25mm/s. However, there is a way you can change the default setting of the maximum retraction speed. Please see the chapter [Stock Firmware (Marlin Based)](firmware/fw_marlin.md), scroll down to the section "Limited Retraction Speed" for your specific model and read the expandable box "Setting A Higher Maximum Value For Retraction Speed". @@ -284,14 +284,14 @@ Some guides say that you should do it without a nozzle, some guides say you shou - Determine the correct printing temperature for the filament you're using. - Use the nozzle you're going to use for printing as well - so don't calibrate the e-steps with e.g. a 0.4mm nozzle, when you're printing with a 0.6mm nozzle later. - Make sure the pressure of the feeder gear is correct and it's (mostly) the setting you'll use later on as well. So don't calibrate with a sloppy feeder gear and crank up the tension later and vice versa. -- *Make sure to use a fine lined, waterproof pen for marking the filament, so don't use a fat marker which aleady draws a 1mm or 2mm wide line!* You want to be as precise as possible here! -- *Make sure to use a precise ruler or a sliding gauge for being able to actually really measure 100mm!* You'd be suprised how bad certain measurement tools actually are and how big deviations can actually be, so make sure to use a sufficient measuring tool. +- *Make sure to use a fine lined, waterproof pen for marking the filament, so don't use a fat marker which already draws a 1mm or 2mm wide line!* You want to be as precise as possible here! +- *Make sure to use a precise ruler or a sliding gauge for being able to actually really measure 100mm!* You'd be surprised how bad certain measurement tools actually are and how big deviations can actually be, so make sure to use a sufficient measuring tool. - Calibrate the e-steps whenever you use different type of filament, even different spools of the same type. The process doesn't take long, but it's crucial that the e-steps are calibrated. So better take the little time to check if everything is still fine after changing the filament. --- ### PID Tuning -Without going into too much details here, PID stands for Proportion, Integral and Derivate. These are three variables of an algorith which is supposed to keep the temperature stable. +Without going into too much details here, PID stands for Proportion, Integral and Derivate. These are three variables of an algorithm which is supposed to keep the temperature stable. By executing a PID tuning, the printer heats up the desired heating element (extruder or bed) to a given temperature, cools down again a few degrees and heats up again for a given amount of circles and measures the fluctuation. After the process is done, you'll then get an output of three values P, I and D and save them to the firmware. It's advisable to execute a PID tuning for both the extruder and the bed before you want to use your printer for the first time. diff --git a/docs/index.md b/docs/index.md index 2f8608d5..c26e9349 100644 --- a/docs/index.md +++ b/docs/index.md @@ -59,7 +59,7 @@ Please mind the **search field** in the header as well as the icon in the header --- -??? info "Thanks To The Supporters And Contributers!" +??? info "Thanks To The Supporters And Contributors!" - *Thanks a lot to **Anthony** for donating a spare part printhead of the **Go** and the **Neo** for further investigations!* - *Thanks a lot to the **kind people who supported my work with a donation** to [my ko-fi account](https://ko-fi.com/U6U5NPB51)!* @@ -87,7 +87,7 @@ Please mind the **search field** in the header as well as the icon in the header - Thanks to **[the-transponster](https://www.reddit.com/user/the-transponster)** for allowing me to use the picture of his clumped hotend! - Thanks to **[Yoriko_Rayne_](https://www.reddit.com/user/Yoriko_Rayne_)** for allowing me to use the picture of how to use the ABL height gauge! - Thanks to **[zimmystor](https://www.reddit.com/user/zimmystor)** for taking pictures of his MicroSwiss bowden drive upgrade at his Go, of the stock heatbreak and of the TriGorilla V_3.0.7! - - Thanks to **[zyssai](https://www.reddit.com/user/zyssai)** for allowing me to use the picture of the diassembled stepper motor! + - Thanks to **[zyssai](https://www.reddit.com/user/zyssai)** for allowing me to use the picture of the disassembled stepper motor! --- @@ -98,7 +98,7 @@ Please mind the **search field** in the header as well as the icon in the header - Please be aware of the fact that you use and/or transpose everything *at your own risk*! - It can't be guaranteed that everything is correct and that it wouldn't harm your printer or even yourself - keep in mind that I'm NO expert by all means! - All information, tips, instructions, suggestions, mods and so on which could be found here should be considered as a base for your own further research! - - Neither am I resposible for any content that I've linked to, it's just meant to be a further source of information to make the start of your own research a bit easier! + - Neither am I responsible for any content that I've linked to, it's just meant to be a further source of information to make the start of your own research a bit easier! --- diff --git a/docs/maintenance.md b/docs/maintenance.md index 30c7b93f..cf8f4e56 100644 --- a/docs/maintenance.md +++ b/docs/maintenance.md @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ In the following, I'll list some steps for doing maintenance on a regular basis. I won't go into detail about e.g. how to position the v-slot wheels or how to change parts at the hotend, as you'll find notes and instructions about that in the belonging sections about the belonging parts. -Generally speaking, this list is just some sort of a rough guideance you can follow where to keep an eye on. +Generally speaking, this list is just some sort of a rough guidance you can follow where to keep an eye on. Due to the fact that parts are moving, vibrances occur and heat is being generated, parts will wear and tear and components may fail sooner or later. So it's advisable to keep an eye on the whole construction as well as on specific parts especially to avoid any malfunction as much as possible. @@ -23,13 +23,13 @@ If you're using the machine not that often, you still should pay attention. In t ??? warning "Don't Use WD-40 For Lubrication" Do yourself a favour and *never* use WD-40 for *lubrication* as it's *not* a lubricant! - It's perfectly fine for e.g. washing off old lubrification from the threaded rod, but it's *not* a sufficient lubrification like e.g. "Super Lube"! + It's perfectly fine for e.g. washing off old lubrication from the threaded rod, but it's *not* a sufficient lubrication like e.g. "Super Lube"! People use to think WD-40 is the perfect solution for pretty much everything, but they aren't aware of the fact that -due to the chemical recipe it's made of- it's absolutely not sufficient for getting parts lubed mid- to longterm. Fact is, that the chemicals inside of it will even wash off any grease or oil, it can harm POM and rubber and so on. As an example: - So let's say you want to lubricate your bike chain and use WD-40 to do so, you'll basically *wash away* the existent lubrification which is inside the chain - therefore the chain will be worn out pretty quick. You'll also harm the sealings. - If you don't believe me, make a little test by yourself: take an air baloon, pump it up, spray WD-40 onto it and wait.. + So let's say you want to lubricate your bike chain and use WD-40 to do so, you'll basically *wash away* the existent lubrication which is inside the chain - therefore the chain will be worn out pretty quick. You'll also harm the seals. + If you don't believe me, make a little test by yourself: take an air balloon, pump it up, spray WD-40 onto it and wait.. --- @@ -157,7 +157,7 @@ You should inspect the screw and the belonging parts like the anti-backlash nut, - Is the lead screw still vertically aligned? - Is there any debris of the POM from the anti-backlash nut in the threads? - Is the screw still lubed? - Clean off the old lubrification and add some new, I personally use "Super Lube" for this. + Clean off the old lubrication and add some new, I personally use "Super Lube" for this. **Anti-Backlash Nut** @@ -228,11 +228,11 @@ Also check if the part cooling fan as well as the heatsink cooling fan still wor **Gantry & Plate** -- Is the bedgantry still stable, or does it wobble? +- Is the bed gantry still stable, or does it wobble? - Are the screws which hold the bedplate onto the gantry still tight? - Is the magnetic foil still sticking fine everywhere, or is it coming up somewhere? Are any bubbles underneath the magnetic foil visible? -- Is the PEI plate still fine or is it severly scratched or is the PEI coating severly harmed in a larger area? +- Is the PEI plate still fine or is it severely scratched or is the PEI coating severely harmed in a larger area? **Wiring** diff --git a/docs/printers.md b/docs/printers.md index fd2a2ea8..4072d451 100644 --- a/docs/printers.md +++ b/docs/printers.md @@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ Here you can read a [blog article from Anycubic](https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/ ??? tip "Be Aware Of Different Settings" - Because of the different types of extruder systems you have to be aware of certain settings like in the slicer you're using and also in alternative firmware like Klipper. In both cases you need to keep an eye on the rectration distance - this is *very* important! + Because of the different types of extruder systems you have to be aware of certain settings like in the slicer you're using and also in alternative firmware like Klipper. In both cases you need to keep an eye on the retraction distance - this is *very* important! *The profile (for the slicer) for the* ***Neo*** *Anycubic is offering has a* ***wrong*** *retraction distance set!* diff --git a/docs/printserver.md b/docs/printserver.md index d691b1bf..22e88637 100644 --- a/docs/printserver.md +++ b/docs/printserver.md @@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ So let's have a look what might be an interesting and reasonable priced solution ## Hardware -In the following I'll mention some solutions which can be used as an additional host which runs some sort of Software like OctoPrit or Pronterface or which can be used as a host for a Klipper installation. +In the following I'll mention some solutions which can be used as an additional host which runs some sort of Software like OctoPrint or Pronterface or which can be used as a host for a Klipper installation. --- @@ -65,13 +65,13 @@ So does that mean you shouldn't use a RPi? No, not at all, it works absolutely f ### RPi Zero (2) W Instead of using the regular Raspberry Pi, you could also get yourself the RPi Zero (2) W. If you want to use it for KLipper, I'd recommend to get the Zero **2** W as it's quadcore CPU is more powerful. -However, as it seems to be quite difficult to get in these times, you could try running Klipper with the older single core Zero W as well - it just might be that it's not powerful enough to run the webcam stream. I've heard that it might not even be capable of running Input Shaper, but I'm not sure if this is true or nt, so maybe do a little rersearch on your own before you buy it. +However, as it seems to be quite difficult to get in these times, you could try running Klipper with the older single core Zero W as well - it just might be that it's not powerful enough to run the webcam stream. I've heard that it might not even be capable of running Input Shaper, but I'm not sure if this is true or nt, so maybe do a little research on your own before you buy it. --- ### Other SBC If you can't or don't want to get an RPi but still want to stick to one of those tiny tinker SBC (single board computer) units, you can check out the market what's available and comparable to a RPi, like an "Orange Pi", a "Le Potato" or so on. -However, I'm not going into further details here as I personally don't use them and therefore can't give reliable pieces of information about which boards exactly might be a good substitue to a RPi. +However, I'm not going into further details here as I personally don't use them and therefore can't give reliable pieces of information about which boards exactly might be a good substitute to a RPi. --- @@ -85,7 +85,7 @@ It might not really come into account if your prints last only a few hours and a ### Thin Clients Now - get ready for the real deal: Thin Clients! -Ok, might be a bit exxagerated, but I really *love* those fellas. +Ok, might be a bit exaggerated, but I really *love* those fellas. *Especially if you want a host for running Klipper on, Thin Clients are my number one recommendation.* If you've never heard of them, let me give you a quick introduction: @@ -100,7 +100,7 @@ Anyway - even if they're usually available for a fair price, I want to mention t - There are many different Thin Clients from different manufacturers available out there - a good site I'd like to recommend to gather around and check out the specs of different Thin Clients is [ParkyTowers](https://www.parkytowers.me.uk/thin/). - If you're looking for something really small, maybe look out for a Dell Wyse 3040 or 3020. They do have limited power and RAM possibilities compared to bigger Thin Clients, but for just acting as a headless print server instead of a RPi they're powerful enough. - - I personally like the HP Thin Client T6x0 series as you can upgrade them really well. The higer the number, the newer the model and the more powerful, energy efficient and compatible with modern parts it is (e.g. T610 uses a 2.5" SSD & DDR3 SO-DIMM RAM while the T630 uses a m2.SATA SSD & DDR4 SO-DIMM RAM). + - I personally like the HP Thin Client T6x0 series as you can upgrade them really well. The higher the number, the newer the model and the more powerful, energy efficient and compatible with modern parts it is (e.g. T610 uses a 2.5" SSD & DDR3 SO-DIMM RAM while the T630 uses a m2.SATA SSD & DDR4 SO-DIMM RAM). --- @@ -116,7 +116,7 @@ The Creality Sonic Pad comes with Klipper preinstalled and offers features like User [@mackmind](https://github.com/mackmind) was so kind to write down some [instructions about how to proceed](https://github.com/1coderookie/Klipper4KobraGoNeo/discussions/7) for getting a Sonic Pad to work with the Go/Neo. The BTT Pad 7 is especially interesting when you want to swap out the stock mainboard and use a BTT board instead. -Afaik the BTT Pad 7 is also somewhat 'easier' to flash and configure than the Sonic Pad, but I didn't really do firther research on it, so maybe better check and compare yourself. +Afaik the BTT Pad 7 is also somewhat 'easier' to flash and configure than the Sonic Pad, but I didn't really do further research on it, so maybe better check and compare yourself. --- @@ -126,7 +126,7 @@ I personally would *not* recommend it as a host for Klipper though - you can use I won't go deeper here though due to my lack of experience with this solution - you'll find many information about this around the web. One of those sources of information I'd like to mention though is the video of [Thomas Sanladerer: How to run OctoPrint on your phone!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74xdib_-X38) and the GitHub repository of [feelfreelinux: octo4a](https://github.com/feelfreelinux/octo4a). -Besides the possibilty to use your old android device as a printserver, you can also use it as an additional screen for software like OctoPrint. That means that you don't install e.g. OctoPrint itself on the android device - you install an app which connects with the running instance of OctoPrint and gives you a nice UI on your smartphone. By doing so you could mount your old phone at the printer and interact with OctoPrint using your touchscreen or just have certain information displayed at the screen. +Besides the possibility of using your old android device as a printserver, you can also use it as an additional screen for software like OctoPrint. That means that you don't install e.g. OctoPrint itself on the android device - you install an app which connects with the running instance of OctoPrint and gives you a nice UI on your smartphone. By doing so you could mount your old phone at the printer and interact with OctoPrint using your touchscreen or just have certain information displayed at the screen. However, it should be mentioned here that it seems to be a bit like gambling to find the right device which connects with the USB chip being used at the printers mainboard and that can be charged parallel to being connected to the printer as well. It might even occur that the mainboard might get affected somehow if one applies 5V to it through the USB-C connector. @@ -137,7 +137,7 @@ However, it should be mentioned here that it seems to be a bit like gambling to ??? tip "USB OTG" - - I'd like to mention one of the probably biggest issues you might encouter: charging the device while having it connected to the printer at the same time.
While it shouldn't be a problem if you're having a device with a separate power plug or wireless charging, it might become a problem if you'd have to use some kind of solution which splits up the line for USB charging and OTG - not all devices work with that.
Additionally, I personally would be concerned about probably harming the printers mainboard due to a faulty cable or whatever. + - I'd like to mention one of the probably biggest issues you might encounter: charging the device while having it connected to the printer at the same time.
While it shouldn't be a problem if you're having a device with a separate power plug or wireless charging, it might become a problem if you'd have to use some kind of solution which splits up the line for USB charging and OTG - not all devices work with that.
Additionally, I personally would be concerned about probably harming the printers mainboard due to a faulty cable or whatever. - What also should be mentioned here as a **warning** is the fact that devices which are connected 24/7 to the charger might be a huge hazard as the battery could catch fire or even blow up. So keep that in mind if you're tempted to go this way. --- @@ -157,7 +157,7 @@ My personal opinion on this: - If you're running the stock one which is Marlin based, just go with OctoPrint. - If you're using Klipper firmware, you can stick to OctoPrint, I'd recommend the usage of Mainsail or Fluidd though, as they're basically made for Klipper. -Yes, you could also look out for different software, but because the abovementioned programs are commonly used you'll find a lot of information about them and also many plugins for enhancing the capability even more. I'd recommend to do a little websearch on that, you might want to start with this article though: [Ocbico: Mainsail vs. Fluidd vs. Octoprint - A Comparison](https://www.obico.io/blog/mainsail-vs-fluidd-vs-octoprint/) +Yes, you could also look out for different software, but because the abovementioned programs are commonly used you'll find a lot of information about them and also many plugins for enhancing the capability even more. I'd recommend to do a little websearch on that, you might want to start with this article though: [Obico: Mainsail vs. Fluidd vs. Octoprint - A Comparison](https://www.obico.io/blog/mainsail-vs-fluidd-vs-octoprint/) --- @@ -175,7 +175,7 @@ As mentioned in the RPi section, if you connect a webcam directly to your prints Preferably use a cam with a wide angle view and a fixed focus, so that you can see the whole area of the bed and there's no autofocus which gets irritated by the movement. -If you want to create a time lapse video from your printing process, keep in mind that it's a pretty resource consuming task (CPU power, RAM and storage usage). So also here using a low resolution like 480p is adviseable, but might not fulfill your needs if you want high resolution videos. +If you want to create a time lapse video from your printing process, keep in mind that it's a pretty resource consuming task (CPU power, RAM and storage usage). So also here using a low resolution like 480p is advisable, but might not fulfill your needs if you want high resolution videos. However, I also would like to mention or even recommend general IP cameras (WiFi/LAN) which you could use. Also here it doesn't have to be a cam for a hundred bucks - a cheap one will do the job just fine. They often already come with the option to create time lapse videos and store it onto a microSD card also. If you like to tinker a bit, maybe get yourself a cheap ESP32-CAM module. diff --git a/docs/profiles.md b/docs/profiles.md index 128877b3..8a515045 100644 --- a/docs/profiles.md +++ b/docs/profiles.md @@ -128,7 +128,7 @@ However, there's also a ["Klipper Settings Plugin"](https://github.com/jjgraphix --- ### PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer -PrusaSlicer and it derivates like SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer are my personal favourites after using Cura for some time. +PrusaSlicer and it derivatives like SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer are my personal favourites after using Cura for some time. **Notes on Klipper** diff --git a/docs/tools.md b/docs/tools.md index 64d77030..d912b436 100644 --- a/docs/tools.md +++ b/docs/tools.md @@ -28,7 +28,7 @@ When it comes down to tinkering, the fun factor and the results raise and fall w ## Lube This isn't actually a tool, but it's definitely something you need: lube. -Don't use WD-40 for lubrification, use a proper lube which doesn't harm any plastic or elastic (POM) parts. +Don't use WD-40 for lubrication, use a proper lube which doesn't harm any plastic or elastic (POM) parts. I personally use and can recommend "Super Lube". ![Super Lube](assets/images/tools_SuperLube_web.jpg) @@ -36,7 +36,7 @@ I personally use and can recommend "Super Lube". --- ## Height Gauge for ABL Sensor -Well, even though this isn't a 'tool' you can buy, you probably want to print out the [height gauge](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Height_gauge.rar?v=1667814312) from Anycubic to make the leveling opration of the ABL sensor a bit easier. You have to make sure though that you're printer already works fine to print it to not mess up the height ratio of the tool. +Well, even though this isn't a 'tool' you can buy, you probably want to print out the [height gauge](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/Height_gauge.rar?v=1667814312) from Anycubic to make the leveling operation of the ABL sensor a bit easier. You have to make sure though that you're printer already works fine to print it to not mess up the height ratio of the tool. It's not necessary to print this though, as you can just use the big two-sided open end wrench that came with the printer. Maybe you even already got it with your printer though, so check if you have this little plastic tool shown in the picture picture below. @@ -107,7 +107,7 @@ The following picture shows my little 12W Weller at the bottom and the beforemen ![Soldering irons](assets/images/soldering_irons_web.jpg) -Most likely you'll get some kind of set, like either a set of two different soldering irons as mentioned above or a soldering station. Thse use to come with the additional components you need, like solder wire and a holder for the iron. +Most likely you'll get some kind of set, like either a set of two different soldering irons as mentioned above or a soldering station. These used to come with the additional components you need, like solder wire and a holder for the iron. However, depending on what you got, it might be smart to buy additional solder wire and solder sucking wire (to suck away molten solder when you want to unsolder something). I personally prefer to use thin solder wire with a flux core and a bit of lead in it for tinkering and soldering small parts, as the lead makes soldering easier and the thin wire allows to be more precise when adding the solder. Nowadays you'll most likely won't be able to get leaded solder wire anymore though, as lead produces toxic fumes while soldering. Instead of that, you'll get lead free solder with silver in it. ![Solder wire](assets/images/solder-wire_web.jpg) @@ -115,7 +115,7 @@ However, depending on what you got, it might be smart to buy additional solder w --- ## Hot Air Gun -A hot air gun comes in handy if you have to disassamble your hotend after you've already taken it out of the printhead or in case you cartridge heater and/or thermistor is broken and therefore you can't use the heating function of the printer itself. +A hot air gun comes in handy if you have to disassemble your hotend after you've already taken it out of the printhead or in case you cartridge heater and/or thermistor is broken and therefore you can't use the heating function of the printer itself. You could either use a 'big' heat gun like the ones from the tool shop and put a 'nozzle' on top of it which concentrates the airflow or you get yourself a hot air gun station which is used to solder SMD with. Here it's nice to be able to set the desired temperature and choose the diameter of the nozzle depending on the part you want to heat up. The following picture shows one of these cheap SMD hot air stations. ![Hot air station](assets/images/hot-air-station_web.jpg) @@ -149,7 +149,7 @@ However, I personally don't use these needles anymore, I prefer to just do a qui --- ## Pipe Cleaner -I like to use pipe cleaners for wiping excessive or leaking filament off the heatened up hotend. They catch molten filament just great and you can bend them to easily wipe around the nozzle. +I like to use pipe cleaners for wiping excessive or leaking filament off the heated hotend. They catch molten filament just great and you can bend them to easily wipe around the nozzle. ![Pipe cleaners](assets/images/pipe_cleaner_web.jpg) @@ -211,7 +211,7 @@ Mind the naming: K1, K2, K3. K1 and K2 take up two wires, K3 can take up three. --- ## Infrared Thermometer -An infrared thermometer allows you to measure higher temperatures without touching the part you want to measure. It comes in handy when you want to check the temperature of the bed a t diffferent spots or when you want to check the temperature of the stepper motors. +An infrared thermometer allows you to measure higher temperatures without touching the part you want to measure. It comes in handy when you want to check the temperature of the bed a t different spots or when you want to check the temperature of the stepper motors. ![Infrared thermometer](assets/images/infrared-thermometer_web.jpg) diff --git a/docs/troubleshooting.md b/docs/troubleshooting.md index bf761b89..8d9027c2 100644 --- a/docs/troubleshooting.md +++ b/docs/troubleshooting.md @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ There are many pages and troubleshooting guides out there to find, so maybe do a However, to offer you an easier start right away, I'd like to mention a few troubleshooting guides here as well: - The [troubleshooting page from TeachingTech](https://teachingtechyt.github.io/troubleshooting.html). -- The [Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/) from [Simplyfy 3D](https://www.simplify3d.com). +- The [Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/) from [Simplify 3D](https://www.simplify3d.com). - The [3D Printer Troubleshooting Guide](https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide) from [Matterhackers](https://www.matterhackers.com). If you're (also) looking for tuning and calibration guides, see the chapter ["Calibration"](calibration.md) for some links. @@ -44,14 +44,14 @@ If you're having the problem that your first layer isn't consistent across the p For PLA for example it should be around 55°C - don't exceed 60°C for PLA as that's already the glass transition temperature of PLA (means, that's where the filament starts to get soft). For PETG I personally have to use 80°C. - Turn off the part cooling fan when printing the first (few) layer(s) and use the correct fanspeed depending on your filament (e.g.: PLA needs a lot of cooling, PETG needs usually less cooling). - Also make sure that you [trammed the x-axis gantry](hardware/axes.md#tramming-the-x-axis-gantry), so that the nozzle has the same distance to the plate across the whole area. This might not be enough though if you're encountering a tilted bed along the y-axis, so check the next listing. -- Check the whole construction and the frame of the printer itself. Everthing has to be set up being square, parallel, perpendicular and equidistant to each other. If the frame isn't trammed and e.g. the Y-axis is being mounted crooked or tilted (which is possible due to play in the whole construction), then you'll never be able to get perfect prints. -- If you're using the rigid stock spacers (the black round parts between the bedplate and the bedgantry) that came with the printer, then it's most likely that they're not all of the same height (at my Neo they *all* had a different height!). Of course that'll lead to a somewhat warped or tilted bed. +- Check the whole construction and the frame of the printer itself. Everything has to be set up being square, parallel, perpendicular and equidistant to each other. If the frame isn't trammed and e.g. the Y-axis is being mounted crooked or tilted (which is possible due to play in the whole construction), then you'll never be able to get perfect prints. +- If you're using the rigid stock spacers (the black round parts between the bedplate and the bed gantry) that came with the printer, then it's most likely that they're not all of the same height (at my Neo they *all* had a different height!). Of course that'll lead to a somewhat warped or tilted bed. Instead of fiddling around with either trying to get them all to the same height by e.g. sanding them down or by putting some sort of thin material underneath them to equalize the height, you might wanna get some [adjustable spacers](hardware/bed.md#different-spacers) for the bed for being able to tram the bed itself as well. This process can be quite challenging and more annoying than taking the effort once to equalize the rigid stock spacers though, so don't think that it'll necessarily make everything easier for you. - I'd recommend to check the bedmesh values (query M503 through a program like e.g. OctoPrint, Pronterface to get them listed) or use e.g. OctoPrint for getting a meshview out of it. By doing so you can see how 'flat' and trammed the bed is. If it's tilted, tram it. If it's warped or bent (like e.g. a bow) or if you're having certain spots which seem to be bulges or dents or if you have a certain area which is lower, you can use *Kapton tape* to equalize those areas/spots. Just take off the PEI plate, stick pieces of the Kapton tape right onto the magnetic foil of the bed, put the PEI plate back on and do another ABL sequence. Then check the values or the meshview again. By doing so step by step, you can get yourself a bed as flat as possible. Minor deviations should be compensated by the ABL function later when printing. See the chapter ["Bed"](hardware/bed.md) (mind the expandable textboxes) as well for more information. -- Wiggle the bed and check if it moves in the vertical plane. If it does, check the bolts and nuts of the bedgantry and [check the v-slot wheels for perfect position](hardware/axes.md#v-slot-wheels-position_2). Most likely the wheels (or at least one) are a bit too far away from the aluminum frame. Adjust the position of the wheels then, but pay attention to not adjust them too tight as well. +- Wiggle the bed and check if it moves in the vertical plane. If it does, check the bolts and nuts of the bed gantry and [check the v-slot wheels for perfect position](hardware/axes.md#v-slot-wheels-position_2). Most likely the wheels (or at least one) are a bit too far away from the aluminum frame. Adjust the position of the wheels then, but pay attention to not adjust them too tight as well. --- @@ -104,7 +104,7 @@ If you don't have any of them, you can use the well-controlled solution we all a *Don't use your kitchen oven for drying filament, as those are often not capable of heating at lower temperatures (many ovens start to heat at 50°C, which is already close to the glass transition temperature of PLA, which is around 55°-60°C!) - you can end up with a big clump of a melted spool and filament!* -When storing your filament, use e.g. some vaccum sealed bags or containers and add dessicant. You can see the solution I personally am using [here](hardware/other.md#filament-storage). +When storing your filament, use e.g. some vacuum sealed bags or containers and add desiccant. You can see the solution I personally am using [here](hardware/other.md#filament-storage). --- @@ -148,7 +148,7 @@ If you still can't get your filament loaded, it's most likely that the PTFE tube ## Blue Silicone Sock Comes Off If the blue elastic piece, which covers the heater block of the hotend, came off, try to put it back on. This one is called ["silicone sock"](hardware/printhead.md#silicone-sock). It kinda insulates the heater block and should be used. If it's missing and the fan duct of the part cooling fan is pointing not at the printed piece, but at the heater block, then you even may face a "Thermal Runaway" error. -If it doesn't stay on, just get yourself some new ones. I'd suppose to get yourself the ones which are slightliy shaped different and have bigger lips, they wrap around the heater block much better and therefore stay in place better. +If it doesn't stay on, just get yourself some new ones. I'd suppose to get yourself the ones which are shaped slightly different and have bigger lips, they wrap around the heater block much better and therefore stay in place better. Read the section ["Silicone Sock"](hardware/printhead.md#silicone-sock) for further information and to see both types for comparison. --- @@ -176,7 +176,7 @@ The other possible cause is a misalignment of the wheels. As the wheels are runn --- ## Wrong Temperature Is Read -If an obviously wrong temperature is read (like e.g. 10° for the bed when you have 25° room temperature or even a negative temperature when it's obvously not *that* cold), then it's most likely that you face a faulty wire. The wires inside of the wires tend to break due to the movement and poor quality, and when only a few wires are left, the resistance becomes bigger - which results in an obviously faulty reading. +If an obviously wrong temperature is read (like e.g. 10° for the bed when you have 25° room temperature or even a negative temperature when it's obviously not *that* cold), then it's most likely that you face a faulty wire. The wires inside of the wires tend to break due to the movement and poor quality, and when only a few wires are left, the resistance becomes bigger - which results in an obviously faulty reading. See the section ["Err: MINTEMP/MAXTEMP/THERMAL RUNAWAY"](#err-mintempmaxtempthermal-runaway) and the reasons listed there as well as the possible solutions for further information. --- @@ -221,7 +221,7 @@ If you face **movement problems** of ## ABL Sensor Not Working -You might face the problem that the LED of the ABL sensor will light up when metal is being detected, but that the functionality of the sensor won't be given since the signal won't be passed to the mainboard. In that case you most likely suffer from a broken wiring. Please read the epandable textbox at the end of the section ["ABL Sensor"](hardware/printhead.md#abl-sensor). +You might face the problem that the LED of the ABL sensor will light up when metal is being detected, but that the functionality of the sensor won't be given since the signal won't be passed to the mainboard. In that case you most likely suffer from a broken wiring. Please read the expandable textbox at the end of the section ["ABL Sensor"](hardware/printhead.md#abl-sensor). --- @@ -230,7 +230,7 @@ In the following I'll list some of the error messages that might appear on the s ### Err: MINTEMP/MAXTEMP/THERMAL RUNAWAY -It might happen that either a **wrong temperature will be read** or that the **whole display turns red** and an error message "Err: MINTEMP/MAXTMEP/THERMAL RUNAWAY: E1/Bed - PRINTER HALTED - Please reset" will be shown (see the following sections for the specific message), blocking any further usage. In this case (red screen) you won't be able to use the printer anymore unless the problem that causes this error will be solved (at least it was the case when I faced this kind of error message). +It might happen that either a **wrong temperature will be read** or that the **whole display turns red** and an error message "Err: MINTEMP/MAXTEMP/THERMAL RUNAWAY: E1/Bed - PRINTER HALTED - Please reset" will be shown (see the following sections for the specific message), blocking any further usage. In this case (red screen) you won't be able to use the printer anymore unless the problem that causes this error will be solved (at least it was the case when I faced this kind of error message). | Err: MINTEMP | Err: MAXTEMP | Err: THERMAL RUNAWAY | |--------------|--------------|----------------------| @@ -239,7 +239,7 @@ It might happen that either a **wrong temperature will be read** or that the **w - **MINTEMP** and **THERMAL RUNAWAY** errors: These kind of errors are called "thermal runaway errors" (*Attention: I'm not sure about the MINTEMP error yet though!*) and they are triggered by a function called "thermal runaway protection". - Basically it's a good thing that these appear (even though the underlying problem isn't 'good' most of the time), as that shows you that this protective function is working. The function observes the development of the heat in a given time and triggers the messages when the expexted temperature of either the bed or the hotend drops about a certain amount of degrees within a certain amount of time and then it triggers the "MINTEMP" error. + Basically it's a good thing that these appear (even though the underlying problem isn't 'good' most of the time), as that shows you that this protective function is working. The function observes the development of the heat in a given time and triggers the messages when the expected temperature of either the bed or the hotend drops about a certain amount of degrees within a certain amount of time and then it triggers the "MINTEMP" error. These are the sections in the files `Configuration_adv.h` of the belonging [stock firmware](firmware/fw_marlin.md#default-settings): ``` Thermal Protection / Thermal Runaway -> Hotend: @@ -286,7 +286,7 @@ Reasons that can cause this might vary from being easy to fix to a real hardware - The printer is exposed to cold air and therefore the temperature drops rapidly. This might be caused by e.g. a window or door you opened. So make sure to prevent the printer being exposed to an area where (cold) air ventilates too much. Also use the printer in a room which isn't too cold in general. - The blue [silicone sock](hardware/printhead.md#silicone-sock) of the heater block came off (or isn't present because you took it off) and the part cooling fan blows at the heater block instead of blowing at the printed part. So make sure to add a silicone sock and adjust the airflow of the part cooling fan. -- *Idividual strands of the thermistor wire are broken (inside of the insulation) and they're losing contact due to movement that occurs.* +- *Individual strands of the thermistor wire are broken (inside of the insulation) and they're losing contact due to movement that occurs.* - The insulation of the thermistor wire is harmed and the unprotected strands of both wires are touching each other. - The thermistor wire is completely broken or ripped off. - The thermistor itself is faulty. @@ -334,7 +334,7 @@ Reasons that can cause this might vary from being easy to fix to a real hardware - An electronic component of the mainboard is broken (e.g. due to a short circuit). If the error pops up while the printer is moving or printing, then it's most likely one of the first two things I mentioned above. -It's actually *most likely that you're dealing with broken wires* - that's a pretty common issue, as they are made of poor quality and tend to brake over time due to the movement. In this case broken strands of the wires (inside of the insulation) temporary lose contact due to the movement of the bed and wires and therefore the resistance fluctuates, which results in a fluctuating temperature reading. The more wires break and the more permament this 'gap' between the broken wires will be, the more 'permanent' this problem will be until to the point that all wires broke and the signal won't be transmitted anymore at all. At this stage the error message will pop up right away when you turn on the printer. +It's actually *most likely that you're dealing with broken wires* - that's a pretty common issue, as they are made of poor quality and tend to brake over time due to the movement. In this case broken strands of the wires (inside of the insulation) temporary lose contact due to the movement of the bed and wires and therefore the resistance fluctuates, which results in a fluctuating temperature reading. The more wires break and the more permanent this 'gap' between the broken wires will be, the more 'permanent' this problem will be until to the point that all wires broke and the signal won't be transmitted anymore at all. At this stage the error message will pop up right away when you turn on the printer. The solution depends on the underlying problem of course. If you face a hardware issue like a partially or completely broken sensor wire, you can replace the sensor wires. @@ -358,7 +358,7 @@ This occurs when either - the belonging switch isn't installed correctly and therefore can't be properly triggered by the belonging part of the head or the bed, - the wiring is faulty (e.g. a loose connector either at the belonging switch or at the mainboard, a broken wire), - the limit switch itself is faulty, -- the mainboard is damaged (which ususally is pretty unlikely if you didn't somehow create a short circuit or so). +- the mainboard is damaged (which usually is pretty unlikely if you didn't somehow create a short circuit or so). To determine whether it's the position, the wiring or the switch (as these are the most likely reasons), check the position of the switch and the plastic cap first. Make sure it's properly installed and the belonging part of either the head of the bed touches the metal lever of the switch properly, so that the switch itself really will be triggered. You can do so by manually moving the head or bed towards the switch while observing it. @@ -379,7 +379,7 @@ If the movement still doesn't stop, *turn off the printer immediately to avoid t This error will be reported when the printer somehow doesn't recognize the [micro SD card](hardware/other.md#microsd-card). This most likely is caused by a harmed filesystem. When printing from the SD card with having the power loss saving feature enabled, the machine is constantly writing to the card to save the progress of the print. -It can also be that the card itself is comletely damaged, but this is actually more the rare case - in most of the cases the card was still accessable when using a computer. +It can also be that the card itself is completely damaged, but this is actually more the rare case - in most of the cases the card was still accessible when using a computer. For solving this issue, try to reformat the card as FAT32 (do a full format though, not a fast format). If that still doesn't solve the issue, try different cards (always formatted as FAT32!). The card that came with the printer is 8GB, but cards up to 32GB should work. From c67355659f3b6f0a3ee9468762308b0bcd47f97c Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Qued Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 23:05:05 -0500 Subject: [PATCH 4/5] docs/firmware corrections --- docs/firmware/fw_klipper.md | 16 ++++++++-------- docs/firmware/fw_marlin.md | 6 +++--- 2 files changed, 11 insertions(+), 11 deletions(-) diff --git a/docs/firmware/fw_klipper.md b/docs/firmware/fw_klipper.md index efd4f001..43e20a67 100644 --- a/docs/firmware/fw_klipper.md +++ b/docs/firmware/fw_klipper.md @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ The [Huada HC32F460 MCU](https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/commit/72b6bd7efa1 - It should already be mentioned here that you can always go back to the stock firmware by just re-flashing it, so you might just want to give Klipper a try. - Be aware of the fact that the control unit and display of the printer doesn't work after flashing Klipper due to the fact that the SPI the unit is connected to isn't supported by Klipper yet. See the belonging section further down below for more information. - - You'd need a host to run additional software like OctoPrint or Mainsail for being able to use the printer with Klipper. See the belonging section further down below for some information and my personal recommendation abput what to use. + - You'd need a host to run additional software like OctoPrint or Mainsail for being able to use the printer with Klipper. See the belonging section further down below for some information and my personal recommendation about what to use. If you don't have a host running OctoPrint/Mainsail/.. yet, see the chapter ["Printserver"](../printserver.md) for some information about hardware you could use for that.